It’s soft-shell crab season now until the end of summer, which means we’re going to be seeing lots of it on local menus — usually served lightly battered and deep-fried, always eaten whole. The good ...

The soft-shell crab, which has not merely shed its exoskeleton, but energetically sucked up so much water that its bloated body cracked its container, is a vulnerable creature. So vulnerable, in fact, ...